Guatemala

Tikal did not disappoint

2-26-24:  Semuc Chambey

We headed off to Semuc Chambey in the morning.    We hit an unexpected obstacle on our way as we come to the town of Sayaxche.  Hustling bustling towns on both sides with lots of ferries moving trucks, cars, motorcycles, bikes and pedestrians from one side to the other.   The ferries are in constant motion since there are so many people wanting to go back and forth.  It was a fun obstacle to run into.

            

Much like every other drive day it takes a long while to get anywhere so Edel’s pulled over at a roadside open air restaurant for lunch in Sayaxche.  A handful of ladies were busy getting food ready, including BBQing pork ribs along the side of the road.  No one was in this place when we got there, but about 15’ later it was packed (always a good sign!).  Super meal (again)!

       

The road to Semuc Chambey was good until the last 20-30 miles where it turned into a very rocky, mountainous, one lane trail.  You had to go very slow and everything in the rigs was tossed about if not tied down.  Well lo and behold what do we run into but a rope toll.  Now a rope toll is one where folks in poorer regions hold up a rope so you can’t pass until you pay a toll – usually small amount like $5 a car or per person.  Everything we read about them said they are typically not a threatening bunch.  We hit 2 of these on the same crappy road and the 1st 2 guys were aggressive in their behavior, like to yell at us and one time made a pistol with his hand and told Matt “Blow you away” as he didn’t like how the negotiations were going.  He and his buddy also wanted more like $65 per car and so we felt negotiations were in order.

Definitely don’t invite this guy into your home!  LOL

We played the role of the blissful traveler who couldn’t speak Spanish and so frustrations were rising – also, we had another local vehicle come up behind us and they needed to get by, adding to the toll taker’s stress.  Ultimately we ended up at ~$20/car and we trudged up the rocky, hilly road headed to another toll 2-3 miles further.  This one was less eventful and both cars were allowed to pass for ~$11 as there was more local traffic gumming up the narrow road.  Also a lot less yelling.

We round our way through these remote villages and encountered a couple large trucks coming uphill the other way.  Edel’s was pulling the trailer and the rule of the road clearly was the bigger vehicle wins and so Edel’s did some very artful backing uphill to make room.  Literally best driving day of the trip as it was engaging at many levels.

We arrived at a town of Lanquin at dusk and found the El Recreo Hotel whose owner let us camp in the parking lot for a few bucks. The owner was super nice and insisted we walk to the bat caves to see the thousands upon thousands of bats leaving for the evening.  We bit at the offer and were not disappointed.

   

2/27/24 – Semuc Chambey and Coban

Today is Matt’s Bday, luckily we’re finished with the big drive to Semuc Chambey and only have the last 10 miles to go (on much nicer roads) before we can relax in some cooling pools.  It is a bit remote as you get to Semuc but surprisingly lots of locals have set up roadside restaurants, river tubing and guiding businesses as lots of tourists make their way here daily. Semuc Chambey is pretty incredible.  It is a crystal clear river with cascading pools you can lounge in – all naturally formed. As we enter Semuc, we meet a guide who took great care of us (Tracy especially).  While Edel’s and Matt took a call, Tracy and the guide went off to the caves where Tracy completed a sacred Mayan ritual -and has the face paint to prove it!

We all did the hike and never ending stairs to the lookout platform above the pools.  Great view from here as the pictures show.  Then from the lookout platform we made our way back down to the refreshing pools – which by this time we really need.  Its fun to dive in off the rocks on the side and make our way from pool to pool.

                            

After the pools, our guide (who seems to be connected to every business in Semuc) leads us to his families roadside restaurant and so we had a awesome lunch.  Then Edels and Matt had a few calls to take so Tracy and our guide did a cave tour where Tracy participated in a Mayan ritual (including face painting) and then Matt and Tracy did a lazy river tube run.   It was a big day at Semuc Champey but not wanting to spend another night here we head out to make our way to Coban to finish celebrating Matts 63rd birthday.

Edels located a hotel in Coban that allowed camping on their property – a jungle like atmosphere amongst some cabins/houses they rented.  The house specialty was a local soup called Kak Iq (pronounced “cack ick”).  A beast of a soup with a full turkey wing sticking out of the bowl.  Crazy good.  We all ate the soup, had some bday wine and called it a day.

     

2/28/24 – Coban – Santo Teresita

We had our sights set on Guatemala City as Roz was rejoining the trip on 3/1, but we found this orchid farm near where we camped and wanted to check it out.  Such a cool story about the farm’s founder and the tour of the place was great – as was our guide who spoke as much English as we did Spanish- perfect match!

         

After the Orchid Far we hit the road towards Guatemala City, but like most days the traveling was slow…and also very hot.  Temps soared into the mod 90’s as we came out of the mountains.  Edel’s was pulling the trailer and his rig was not happy in the heat.  We were not going to make the big city before nightfall and so we had to stop – and we found an absolute oasis to stay in.

The town of Sanarata was nothing special, but behind the walls of the fence hiding this property was a beautifully landscaped oasis – Casa Santo Teresita.  A few small A-frame cabins they rented, large grass area surrounded by gardens, a pool and facilities.  Tracy was able to get in a swim at the beautiful pool and we all enjoyed hot showers.  What a find!  Turns out Edel’s rig would not start once he turned it off so we had to game plan for the next day if it wouldn’t start after resting for the night.

           

 

2/29/24 – 3/3/24 – Guatemala City and Antigua

Edel’s rig started in the morning, so we headed into Guatemala City to find a mechanic to fix the ignition which seemed to be the culprit.  The address for a Rover mechanic was wrong and as we were walking around the neighborhood asking if anyone knew of our mystery Rover mechanic we came across a general mechanic shop.  A young guy and Edel’s worked through the language gaps and the guy was confident he could fix the issue so Edel’s let him at it.  He not only handled the ignition issue, but also put in a bypass switch Edel’s could use if the issue popped up again (spoiler alert..it did and the bypass was an awesome add).

With Roz coming in the next day on 3/1, the team split up and Edel’s went to a hotel near the airport and Tracy and Matt headed off to Antigua.  Tracy and Matt stayed at Eventos Verde in Antigua to wait for Edels and Roz. Eventos Verde is located on a very busy street in Antigua, but when Issac, our host, opens the gate we are lead into a beautiful property that looks like a botanic garden.  Eventos Verde hosts weddings and other events on the property but also let you camp.  So funny!  Its a great place to camp!

 

Matt and Tracy take a free walking tour of the city in the morning with Roberto.  Its a beautiful colonial city with a rich history.  We’re here at a good time the city is dressed up for Lent and if you want to see celebrations leading up to Easter this is the place to do it.   Every Sunday during Lent the streets are shut down for processions that include rugs of flowers laid on the streets.  Purple drapery is on most window and door arches.  A traveling family camping at the site shared some pics of the Lent Parade that really brings to life the celebration.  The girls were very outgoing, got invited to a wedding Saturday night at the grounds we were staying and were entertaining to say the least.

Roberto leads us through the historic square, up and down side streets, to a monastery turned high end hotel, churches, museums and lastly to the jade museum.  Jade was very important to the Mayans and is very important in Guatemala where they have a very rare form of Jade.  There is a very cool dormant volcano near town and you can capture it from under the arch – but a second volcano which is active sit a but further away, but erupts every 20-30′.  Gotta love it.

     

When John and Roz get into town we try to repeat our walking tour with them but somehow it falls apart at the wine bar below the monastery’s arch, hmmm!  Well hopefully they got a good tour before the vino.  The pics below are from a large monastery in the city that was very impressive.  Tracy not wanting to miss the last thing to see in Antigua hikes up the hill to get the view of the city.  Its hard to see too much because of a fire that has been burning on the volcano but it was still fun to do.

          

A few blocks from where we were staying is a very large food court/live band area/botanical garden/you name it place.  Crazy really – took a full block in the city and sat behind walls.  Super enjoyable to go at night for some music, beverage and empanadas.